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brynOrange Zest Seized My Chocolate

By Bryn Kirk on July 22, 2010 | Comments (0)

Recently, I was asked this question:  “I love the taste of chocolate and orange but when I add orange zest to my coating it curdles.  Why?”

This presents an excellent technical lesson in working with chocolate.

The issue is moisture.

“Curdle” is not the correct term, but I think the idea is clear – chocolate will not function properly if moisture is introduced.  Even the tiniest drop of water is problematic.  When water and chocolate mix, it will “seize.”

Fresh fruit, including the peel of an orange, is moist and adding it to a chocolate coating spells disaster.  For this reason, chocolate candy bars use dried fruit, candied fruit, or an oil based flavoring.

You can cheat a little (and get away with it) by adding a fruit zest or juice to a ganache and then enrobing the ganache in chocolate.  If the candy is eaten within a few days, the moisture captured in the creamy center should not be a problem.  Truffles tolerate this process the best.  Don’t add the moisture to the coating.  Instead, add it to the candy center.

Another common problem arises when dipping fresh strawberries in chocolate.  Make sure you dry the outer skin completely before covering in chocolate.  This will buy you some time before the moisture makes it way through the fruit and to the surface of the chocolate coating.  When this happens, the moisture will destroy the appearance (with bloom) and texture (making it bumpy or grainy) of the surrounding chocolate.

Categories: chocolate education
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brynChocolate Adventures in England – Jaffa Cakes

By Bryn Kirk on February 11, 2010 | Comments (0)

Tonight I find myself sitting in my sister’s flat in London, England eating Jaffa Cakes and sipping Frangelico flavored coffee.  I am visiting my sister and my brand new niece, only 2 days old.

What is Jaffa Cake?

The Jaffa Cake is a British favorite.  The cake is a three layered treat about the size of a cookie.  It is made with a bottom layer of sponge cake, a middle layer of orange flavored jelly, and a top layer of rich milk chocolate coating.

I am a fan of orange and chocolate pairings so it is easy to fall in love with Jaffa Cakes.

There are many different brands of Jaffa Cakes.  Tonight I am enjoying Cadbury brand.  I expected the coating to stand out since Cadbury IS chocolate around here!  I am not disappointed.

At first, the chocolate has a low impact and the orange completely dominates in flavor.  By the time everything blends and mixes in my mouth, the two flavors of orange and chocolate are balanced out and provide a nice combination.  The finish is lingering with a milky aftertaste from the chocolate.  The sponge cake is simply a flavor delivery mechanism and rather neutral in the whole experience.

Oh so Good!

The Jaffa Cake was introduced in 1927 by McVitie and Price and named after the Jaffa Orange.  The Jaffa Orange, originally grown in the Jaffa region of Palestine, before Isreal became a state, is similar to Valencia oranges in taste, only sweeter.

Finding Jaffa Cakes in the states may not be as easy as finding it here in the UK, but it can be done.  Once, I came across a box at my local US Aldi store.

Go ahead and give Jaffa Cakes a try!  Finding them is worth the effort.

Categories: chocolate review
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brynChocolate Covered Strawberries

By Bryn Kirk on February 2, 2010 | Comments (0)

Have you ever cut corners while cooking?  Ever used short cuts that the original recipe had you make from scratch? 

I have.  And why not?  Most often those “changes” don’t affect the final product and it saves lots of time.  Yes, sometimes I even buy frosting in a can (shhh, don’t tell my kids!).

One thing I have learned from my experience working with chocolate is that there are some short cuts that work and some that don’t.

Let’s consider the making of chocolate-covered strawberries.  Can you cheat at making chocolate covered strawberries without anyone noticing?

Yes, but………

The real timesaver when making chocolate-covered strawberries would be to figure out how to quickly temper, or harden, the chocolate coating.  Normally, the tempering process takes time and certain amount of skill gained by practice.  Although there are ways to speed up the solidification of chocolate, there is no good way to fake a tempered chocolate.

There are many recipes you can get your hands on that tell you how to make chocolate-covered strawberries.  And almost all of those tell you to melt the chocolate, dip the strawberries, and then put into them in the refrigerator to harden.  Voila, done!

That method is indeed fast and easy but it only works if you eat the strawberries within seconds of taking them out of the fridge.  If you want to put those remarkably delicious works of art out on a plate for your guests to admire before eating, the quality of the experience will certainly be diminished if you took the easy way out. 

The chocolate coating should be tempered.  This is not a step I recommend you skip.  An un-tempered coating will start to melt in your hand almost immediately.  It will bend when you bite it – giving you a soft and pasty feel in the mouth.   The chocolate will melt quickly on your tongue and the flavor will be gone before you can savor it.

A tempered chocolate will give a crisp snap when you bite and won’t get all gooey on your fingers while you hold it.  The chocolate will melt slowly in your mouth and allow a full blast of chocolate flavor to come through. 

If the strawberries with un-tempered chocolate sit long enough, they may start to bloom.  This means they will develop a white dust over the surface and look very unappetizing.

Try dipping strawberries in tempered chocolate and notice the difference.  If needed, refer to my earlier blogs on how to temper chocolate.  It will be worth the effort.

Categories: chocolate education
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brynThe Importance of Tempering Chocolate

By Bryn Kirk on August 31, 2009 | Comments (1)

I admit my mind works differently than that of other chocolate lovers.  I am a scientist first, I guess, then a chocolate lover. 

One day I was attending a local street festival and happened upon a vendor selling “Fresh Pineapple – Chocolate Covered!”  Most people’s first reaction might be, “Yum!” but mine was more like, “Well, this is interesting.  It is either a chocolate disaster in the making (there’s too much moisture in most fresh fruit to support a tempered chocolate) or a major discovery!”

I guess I was picturing a wedge of pineapple (carefully wiped dry?) dipped in chocolate, similar to a chocolate-covered strawberry.  My curiosity was growing by the minute.

Well… the vendor put pineapple in a bowl and poured liquid chocolate on top.  You had to eat it with a spoon!

Cheater.

You see, chocolate must be tempered.  It is, in my opinion, the most important step when working with chocolate.

Tempered chocolate is solid at room temperature, has a smooth, shiny finish, and snaps when you break it.  Un-tempered or poorly tempered chocolate will melt too quickly in your hand, crumble or bend instead of snapping, and have a dull appearance or even “bloom” – which is that ugly gray film covering the surface.

Considering that description, which chocolate sounds more appealing to you?  Tempered or untempered?  Yeah, I thought so.

Tempering chocolate is not easy, but it is not difficult either.  Yes, there are ways to harden chocolate without tempering but trouble is right around the corner if you decide to take a short cut…

Freezing, or sticking chocolate into the refrigerator, instead of tempering is a solution that lasts about ten seconds (ok, maybe ten minutes, but you get my point).  You can’t break the chocolate rules without consequences, in this case condensation makes the untempered chocolate even worse.

To hold up best at room temperature, the cocoa butter in chocolate must crystallize from a liquid to a solid at the right temperature, in the right form, and in the right amount.  This is the tried and true principle behind tempering.

In an upcoming article I’ll explain the steps of tempering.

Categories: chocolate education
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