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brynTroubleshoot Chocolate Tempering

By Bryn Kirk on February 18, 2010 | Comments (0)

Recently I was asked about tempered chocolate that fails to keep a good shine and what can be done to fix that?  (See comments on how to temper chocolate page.)

That’s a really good question.  Concerns about the streaking and the lack of shine make me think about how temperatures, crystal development and the appearance of chocolate are all connected.

Properly tempered chocolate is shiny and uniform in color. When chocolate has streaks and does not shine, it indicates that at some point in the production process, the chocolate solidified without being in a properly tempered state.

I am sorry to have to get technical here, but see if you can follow this.  Cocoa butter has to solidify or form crystals within a narrow range of temperatures.  Tempering means all crystals become as identical in size and shape as possible and we can do this by controlling the temperatures.   

There are essentially 3 major stages in the making of chocolates that you have to be particularly careful to achieve the right temperature:

Stage 1 – The Starting Product

If you make your own chocolate candy center, like toffee or ganache, make sure it is absolutely at room temperature before you dip in chocolate.  If you don’t let it cool down enough, the heat will eventually push through your coating and cause it to lose its temper – either entirely or partially.  On the flip side, if you let the center get too cold, you essentially “shock” the chocolate.  This causes really BIG crystals to grow and the coating appears very dull, a flat finish.

If you mold your chocolates, use the molds at room temperature. This could be another source of unintended heat or cold introduced as the chocolate is solidifying.

Stage 2 – The Tempering Process

This is the most likely stage to produce streaking.

Agitating or stirring the chocolate during the tempering process is crucial to prevent streaking.  Imagine adding red food coloring to white frosting to make it pink.  If you stir in the coloring using only a few strokes, you will see streaks of red among the white. Continually stir and the frosting will eventually turn pink. Something similar happens when you temper chocolate without a thorough mixing.  Temperatures along the bottom and sides of the tempering pan will be several degrees different than its center.  Each temperature gradient grows different crystals at different rates.  This causes light to bounce and bend irregularly and we see alternating streaks of light and dark chocolate after it dries.

Too much stirring will cause air bubbles to form and get trapped within the coating.  Air bubbles cause crystals to form unevenly which gives the chocolate a grainy appearance on the surface.

If you use a tempering machine it may have separate milk, dark, and white chocolate settings.  If not, you’ll need to set up the temperature and mixing parameters differently for each type of chocolate that you use.  Milk chocolates temper at a lower temperature range than dark chocolates.  Milk chocolates are tricky because there are different percentages of milk in any given brand or formulation of milk chocolate coating. The higher amount of milk (milk fat), the lower the temperature.  White chocolates can be even more sensitive to temperature than milk chocolates. 

Stage 3 – The Cooling Process

This is the most likely stage to produce dull looking product with no shine.  The ideal temperature for cooling chocolate is between 65 and 68 F.  The relative humidity should be 50% or less.  I use a fan on a medium setting pointed right at my chocolates.  The fan will lift the humidity out of the air surrounding them.  Make sure the cooling tray is elevated off the counter top enough to let air circulate underneath and take away excess heat from the bottoms.  A refrigerator hovers around 40 F and a freezer around 30 F – these temps are too low to encourage a nice shine. Rooms that heat up during the summer spell disaster for chocolate.  Anything over 78 F is too warm and makes the chocolate soft and slightly sticky.

One obvious sign that the cooling process was unsuccessful is the formation of bloom.  Bloom is a gray dusty film that covers the surface of chocolate.  It can happen within hours, or days, after tempering and cooling.

To summarize, this particular tempering problem description appears to be a temperature issue at one of more stages of the process.

Categories: chocolate education
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brynChocolate Covered Strawberries

By Bryn Kirk on February 2, 2010 | Comments (0)

Have you ever cut corners while cooking?  Ever used short cuts that the original recipe had you make from scratch? 

I have.  And why not?  Most often those “changes” don’t affect the final product and it saves lots of time.  Yes, sometimes I even buy frosting in a can (shhh, don’t tell my kids!).

One thing I have learned from my experience working with chocolate is that there are some short cuts that work and some that don’t.

Let’s consider the making of chocolate-covered strawberries.  Can you cheat at making chocolate covered strawberries without anyone noticing?

Yes, but………

The real timesaver when making chocolate-covered strawberries would be to figure out how to quickly temper, or harden, the chocolate coating.  Normally, the tempering process takes time and certain amount of skill gained by practice.  Although there are ways to speed up the solidification of chocolate, there is no good way to fake a tempered chocolate.

There are many recipes you can get your hands on that tell you how to make chocolate-covered strawberries.  And almost all of those tell you to melt the chocolate, dip the strawberries, and then put into them in the refrigerator to harden.  Voila, done!

That method is indeed fast and easy but it only works if you eat the strawberries within seconds of taking them out of the fridge.  If you want to put those remarkably delicious works of art out on a plate for your guests to admire before eating, the quality of the experience will certainly be diminished if you took the easy way out. 

The chocolate coating should be tempered.  This is not a step I recommend you skip.  An un-tempered coating will start to melt in your hand almost immediately.  It will bend when you bite it – giving you a soft and pasty feel in the mouth.   The chocolate will melt quickly on your tongue and the flavor will be gone before you can savor it.

A tempered chocolate will give a crisp snap when you bite and won’t get all gooey on your fingers while you hold it.  The chocolate will melt slowly in your mouth and allow a full blast of chocolate flavor to come through. 

If the strawberries with un-tempered chocolate sit long enough, they may start to bloom.  This means they will develop a white dust over the surface and look very unappetizing.

Try dipping strawberries in tempered chocolate and notice the difference.  If needed, refer to my earlier blogs on how to temper chocolate.  It will be worth the effort.

Categories: chocolate education
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brynIs White Chocolate Really Chocolate?

By Bryn Kirk on November 18, 2009 | Comments (0)

Yes and No.

White chocolate is a blend of cocoa butter, milk, sugar, and vanilla.  There is no chocolate liquor (chocolate solids) present, so, can you really call it chocolate?  Perhaps not.

However, there is a legal definition for white chocolate to separate it from other “white stuff,” so perhaps yes.

According to U.S. regulations, white chocolate needs to be at least 20% cocoa butter and at least 14% total milk solids.

Beware – there are white chocolate look-a-likes out there!

If white chocolate doesn’t contain cocoa butter then it is made with a vegetable fat like partially hydrogenated palm kernel oil.  A product containing this type of fat is called white confectionery coating and cannot be called white chocolate.  White confectionery coating can also be called white almond bark or white candy coating.

I think white chocolate looks and tastes remarkably different than white confectionery.  Compare these two items sometime, side by side, and you’ll understand what I mean. 

Look at the difference.  The first thing you will notice is that white chocolate looks pale yellow when compared to white confectionery.  This color difference is due to the cocoa butter which is naturally more yellow in color than other vegetable oils.

Taste the difference.  The cocoa butter in white chocolate provides a subtle, but distinct “chocolate” flavor which is lacking in white confectionery coating.  More often than not, white confectionery coatings are sweeter and less milky tasting than white chocolate.

Now that you know the difference, which do you prefer?

Categories: chocolate education, fun chocolate facts
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brynAvoid Mistakes While Tempering Chocolate

By Bryn Kirk on November 12, 2009 | Comments (0)

As a follow-up to a few recent posts about tempering chocolate, I thought it might be useful to discuss some common mistakes you might make when tempering.

The most common mistakes I see are the lack of temperature control, lack of proper stirring, not choosing the right chocolate for the job, improper storage, and letting moisture contact the chocolate.

Let’s take a closer look at each of these situations…

Hot and Cold
Temperature control is really important when melting chocolate as well as tempering chocolate.  Chocolate can burn easily, so use a low temperature, take it slow, and stir often.  After the chocolate is melted, it is too hot to support good crystallization of the cocoa butter.  The chocolate must be cooled to the correct temperature depending on the type of chocolate being used (87˚ – 89˚ for dark and 85˚ – 87˚ for milk).  Improper temperatures keep the chocolate from hardening and it will remain wet and sticky instead of dry and glossy.

Working up a sweat
Stir, stir, and stir!  Constant stirring of the chocolate will force the crystals to form into the proper size and shape until solid.  It will also evenly distribute the temperature through out the whole mixture.  Lack of stirring means the chocolate will become discolored and dry with white streaks or dots.

Choosing the right chocolate
Using the wrong type of chocolate for your tempering project is bound to add frustration on top of disastrous results!  For example, don’t use chocolate chips for melting and dipping.  The viscosity, or “flow” property, of a chocolate chip is too thick to be useful for coating.  It would be like trying to cover a strawberry with pudding – not exactly the easiest way to do it. :)

Making it last
Chocolate has a long shelf-life, if stored correctly.  Chocolate should be stored in an air-tight container, away from strong odors, air temperature around 65˚ – 68˚ and a relative humidity of no more than 50%.

Water Phobia
Water and chocolate get along like cats and dogs.  If any moisture comes in contact with chocolate, you’ll know it right away – it turns into a grainy, sodden mess that it difficult to stir.  This mistake even has an impressive name: “seizing.”  If your chocolate seizes, throw it away and start over.  Seized chocolate will not melt or temper.

Avoid these problems and you’re well on your way to a good tempering experience!

Categories: chocolate education
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brynChocolate Definitions

By Bryn Kirk on October 29, 2009 | Comments (0)

Confusion in the world of chocolate? 

You might think, “there’s nothing confusing about chocolate — you buy it, you eat it!“  The reality is, the chocolate world has its own lingo, with terms and definitions that apply to the tasting of chocolate, the baking and cooking of chocolate, and the making of chocolate confections. 

nibs, cocoa, and chocolateTo help you keep it all straight, here is a list of some common chocolate vocabulary along with their definitions…

Cocoa bean (or nib):
The cocoa bean is the seed from the pod, or fruit, of the chocolate tree — Theobroma cacao.  The cocoa bean has a shell surrounding it.  When it is removed, the nib, or the center, is revealed.  The nib is typically roasted and then crushed into chocolate liquor.

Baking chocolate (or chocolate liquor):
Baking chocolate is made from finely ground and roasted cocoa beans.  There is no sugar in baking chocolate.

Cocoa butter:
The fat present in cocoa beans is called cocoa butter.  The term “butter” does not mean that cocoa butter is a dairy product.

Cocoa powder:
Cocoa powder comes from removing the cocoa butter from the nib and then grinding the remaining solids into a powder.  The terms cocoa and cocoa powder can be used interchangeably.

Bittersweet (or semi-sweet) chocolate:
Bittersweet chocolate must contain at least 35% chocolate liquor and only cocoa butter as a fat, according to U.S. Standards of Identity.  Both bittersweet and semi-sweet chocolate terms can be used interchangeably.

Milk chocolate:
The most commonly consumed form of chocolate is milk chocolate.  Milk chocolate must contain a minimum of 10% chocolate liquor and at least 12% milk solids.  Milk fat and cocoa butter are the only fats that can be used.

White chocolate:
White chocolate is a blend of cocoa butter, milk, and sugar.  There are no chocolate solids present, which is why it lacks the typical brown color of chocolate.  U.S. regulations requires white chocolate to contain at least 20% (by weight) cocoa butter and at least 14% total milk solids.

Dutch processed chocolate:
This process darkens the color of the chocolate and releases a milder chocolate flavor.  The chocolate liquor or cocoa solids are treated with an alkaline solution.  The terms “dutched” or “alkalized” are listed on the ingredient statement for products sold in the U.S.

Chocolate flavored coating (or confectionary coating):
Chocolate that is made using a blend of vegetable fats either in addition to or other than cocoa butter.  Chocolate flavored coatings are similar in color to “real” chocolate coatings but taste very different and usually do not need to be tempered.  These coatings that contain vegetable fats cannot legally be called “chocolate” in the US.

Categories: chocolate education, fun chocolate facts
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brynHow to Temper Chocolate (Step 2 – Finish)

By Bryn Kirk on October 8, 2009 | Comments (4)

When you buy chocolate in the store, it is already tempered.  (At least it should be!)  Basically this means it is in a stable solid form at room temperature. 

If you want to get down to the business of eating the chocolate straight out of the package, no problem, just break off a chunk and go to it!  But, if you want to use the chocolate for any other purpose you may have to re-temper.

This is the final part in my series of tempering chocolate.  The first article was about the importance of tempering chocolate.  The last article was about melting the chocolate to get ready for tempering.

Now this post explains the actual tempering process. 

There are several methods of tempering but I prefer one method over the others – I prefer the SEED METHOD.

Solidifying chocolate is all about the crystals, and the secret to success depends on time and temperature.  The seed method is my favorite way to cheat in the process. :)

Seeding releases already stable crystals into melted chocolate, thus building upon existing structures that will begin the tempering process.  It is a faster method than starting from scratch, which attempts to create crystals where none exist. 

Here is the step by step process for tempering chocolate using the seed method.

  1. Chop about 1 lb. of the chocolate into small pieces but set aside a chunk a little smaller than the size of the palm of your hand.
     
  2. Melt the chocolate by one of the methods presented in the melting the chocolate article.
     
  3. Remove the melted chocolate from the heat and drop in the saved chunk of chocolate.  Stir until the chocolate temperature drops to between 89° F to 91° F for dark chocolate or 87° to 89° F for milk chocolate.**Here is where arm strength and patience come in handy. The temperature will drop slowly, which is a necessary part of this process.  Stirring constantly will help distribute the growing crystals evenly throughout the mixture and form them into consistent sizes and shapes.
     
  4. Remove the remaining piece of solid chocolate (seed chocolate) if there is any left.  Set it aside.  (No, don’t eat it!  You still might need it.)
     
  5. Test the temper by smearing a small amount (say a teaspoon) of the chocolate on wax paper and allow it to cool for 5 to 10 minutes.  It should harden to be smooth, shiny, and dry to the touch.  If you see any dull areas, wet areas, or streaks in the hardened chocolate that indicates poor crystal development or lack of thorough mixing and stirring. If the results are not satisfactory, repeat the process by reheating the chocolate.  Use any leftover seed chocolate to begin again.

Assuming your test looks good, your chocolate is well tempered.

So now what?  What can you do with a bowl of tempered chocolate?  Yes, I know you’re thinking you can eat it.  But wait, you’ve gone through the hard work, let’s enhance something!

How about chocolate-dipped strawberries, or chocolate covered pretzels, or homemade chocolate candies.  Get the picture?  Once you’ve got a good temper you can coat anything.  Then let it harden at room temperature for a beautiful finish and great snap.

OK, stop drooling and start tempering!  You can comment below to tell me how it goes.

Categories: chocolate education
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brynHow to Temper Chocolate (Step 1 – Melt It)

By Bryn Kirk on September 14, 2009 | Comments (2)

The first step in tempering chocolate is melting the chocolate.  Properly.

You might be thinking, what’s the big deal about melting chocolate?

Chocolate is a low melting point food.  It melts just below human body temperature.  While this low melting point means it’s easy to melt in the mouth, it also means it’s easy to burn when direct heat is used. Overheating chocolate will cause it to burn.  Burnt chocolate is irreversibly damaged and cannot be used.

In addition to burning, another potential problem when melting chocolate is “seizing”.  This can happen if you use an indirect heating method like a hot water and a double boiler. Small amounts of water will cause the chocolate to “seize” or become hard and crumbly.  Seized chocolate is irreversibly damaged and cannot be used.

There are several ways to melt chocolate effectively.

Microwave method

  1. Place a few chucks of chocolate in a microwave safe bowl.

  2. Heat the chocolate at 50% power for one minute.  Remove and stir. If chocolate is not melted, return to the microwave at 50% power for 30 seconds.  Remove and stir.

  3. Repeat every 30 seconds until chocolate is nearly melted. When small lumps remain, do not heat, but continue to stir until all is melted.  The key to melting is in the stirring.  Latent heat will continue to melt the chocolate while stirring.

The microwave method is the fastest way to melt chocolate but is also the easiest way to burn it if you are not careful.

Double boiler or bowl over hot water method

  1. Place small chucks of chocolate in the top pan of a double boiler over hot, but not boiling, water.  If the water is boiling, some may splash into the top pan and ruin the chocolate.
  2. If you don’t have a double boiler, then use a glass bowl or metal mixing bowl over a sauce pan filled ½ full with hot, but not boiling, water.
  3. Allow the chocolate to melt, stirring it occasionally.

This is a slower method, but there is very little risk of burning. Just be careful of the water!

Oven method

This method is really effective, especially if you want to melt a large amount of chocolate at one time or if you have to leave the chocolate in larger chunks. Your oven must heat evenly and be set to a very low temperature of 100°F.

  1. Place the amount of chocolate you want to melt into an oven safe bowl or pan.
  2. Let the chocolate melt at 100°F, stirring every 5 minutes until completely melted.

Of the three melting methods presented, this one takes the most time to melt.  A benefit though, once melted, the chocolate can be held at this temperature in the oven for the entire time you need to work with it.  There is little risk of burning and no water to splash.

In the next article in this series I’ll go over the “seed” method of tempering

Categories: chocolate education
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brynThe Importance of Tempering Chocolate

By Bryn Kirk on August 31, 2009 | Comments (1)

I admit my mind works differently than that of other chocolate lovers.  I am a scientist first, I guess, then a chocolate lover. 

One day I was attending a local street festival and happened upon a vendor selling “Fresh Pineapple – Chocolate Covered!”  Most people’s first reaction might be, “Yum!” but mine was more like, “Well, this is interesting.  It is either a chocolate disaster in the making (there’s too much moisture in most fresh fruit to support a tempered chocolate) or a major discovery!”

I guess I was picturing a wedge of pineapple (carefully wiped dry?) dipped in chocolate, similar to a chocolate-covered strawberry.  My curiosity was growing by the minute.

Well… the vendor put pineapple in a bowl and poured liquid chocolate on top.  You had to eat it with a spoon!

Cheater.

You see, chocolate must be tempered.  It is, in my opinion, the most important step when working with chocolate.

Tempered chocolate is solid at room temperature, has a smooth, shiny finish, and snaps when you break it.  Un-tempered or poorly tempered chocolate will melt too quickly in your hand, crumble or bend instead of snapping, and have a dull appearance or even “bloom” – which is that ugly gray film covering the surface.

Considering that description, which chocolate sounds more appealing to you?  Tempered or untempered?  Yeah, I thought so.

Tempering chocolate is not easy, but it is not difficult either.  Yes, there are ways to harden chocolate without tempering but trouble is right around the corner if you decide to take a short cut…

Freezing, or sticking chocolate into the refrigerator, instead of tempering is a solution that lasts about ten seconds (ok, maybe ten minutes, but you get my point).  You can’t break the chocolate rules without consequences, in this case condensation makes the untempered chocolate even worse.

To hold up best at room temperature, the cocoa butter in chocolate must crystallize from a liquid to a solid at the right temperature, in the right form, and in the right amount.  This is the tried and true principle behind tempering.

In an upcoming article I’ll explain the steps of tempering.

Categories: chocolate education
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cuoadminBasic Chocolate Tasting

By Jeffrey Kirk on May 28, 2009 | Comments (0)

Today we’re going to quickly explore a method for tasting chocolate.  I’d like you to have two chocolate bars ready.  These should both be milk chocolate bars or both dark chocolate bars.  You can pick different brands or pick the same brand with different percentages of chocolate content.  We want to make sure you’ll taste sufficient differences.

Now that you have your chocolate ready, you’ll need to pick an appropriate time and place to do the tasting.  Well, I’m not really sure there’s a bad time or place to eat chocolate, but some times and places are better than others to experience the best results.

Find a moment when you are relaxed, you’re not hungry, and you don’t already have some lingering flavor in your mouth.  Also be away from strong smelling lotions or perfumes that could interfere with your senses.

Ideally you should clean your palate before each taste.  Room temperature water is best.  Hot or cold beverages will change the temperature in your mouth and cause the chocolate to melt too quickly or too slowly.

Now that you’ve found the right time and place, let’s get started. 

Smell the first chocolate.  Focus on the aroma and the many different scents.  If you are having trouble identifying scents, try putting your finger on the surface of the chocolate to melt it a little, releasing aroma.

Now put a piece of the chocolate in your mouth.  Chew a little.  Pay attention to the smoothness or grittiness.  Before you chew it all, allow the last of it to slowly melt in your mouth.  Again feel the texture.  During this entire process, as the chocolate melts, different flavors are being released.

At first you’ll probably notice the sweetness and the intensity of the chocolate flavor.  Then you might notice some fruity or nutty flavors.  Finally the taste should leave you with lingering chocolaty or dairy notes.  Yum.

It’s time to clean your palate again and repeat with the second chocolate.  See if you can notice different aromas, a different texture, and different flavors released during the melting.

How did the second chocolate compare to the first?  Was it very similar or very different? 

If you have never taken the time to truly taste chocolates, and compare to others in that moment, you might have been surprised at how different they could be.  My recommendation is that you make some notes about this tasting experience.  Repeat with more chocolates in the future. 

Soon you’ll have record of your own chocolate preferences.  You’ll be able to taste new chocolates and understand their uniquenesses without comparing to a second bar.  You’ll recall those previous tastings and fit the new chocolate into your chocolate flavor continuum.

Categories: chocolate education
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